Valparaíso

Where should I stay?

Where should I eat?

• J. Cruz Malbrán · El Plan (Calle Condell) · Chilean: A cluttered old canteen known as the home of the chorrillana, a heap of fries, beef, onions and egg meant for sharing.
• Delicias Express · Cerro Alegre · Empanadas: A small shop frying dozens of empanada varieties, including seafood fillings typical of the coast.
• Mercado Cardonal · El Almendral · Market / Chilean: The city's main produce market, with cheap upstairs eateries serving seafood and set lunches.
• Caleta Portales · Portales · Seafood: A working fishing cove where simple stalls and eateries serve fresh fish, empanadas de marisco and caldillo.
• Bar Cinzano · Plaza Aníbal Pinto · Chilean / Bar: A historic bar from the 1890s serving classic Chilean dishes, with live tango and bolero music on some nights.
• Café Vinilo · Cerro Alegre · Chilean / Café: A relaxed café-restaurant on Almirante Montt with updated Chilean food by day and drinks with records playing at night.
• Fauna · Cerro Alegre · Chilean / Contemporary: A hotel restaurant with a large terrace overlooking the bay, good for seafood and Chilean wine at sunset.

What should I do?

• La Sebastiana · Cerro Bellavista: Pablo Neruda's narrow, five-story house, filled with his collections and with wide views over the harbor.
• Cerro Alegre y Cerro Concepción · Cerro Alegre / Cerro Concepción: The adjoining hills at the heart of the UNESCO-listed historic quarter, with colorful houses, lookouts and cafés.
• Museo a Cielo Abierto · Cerro Bellavista: An open-air circuit of large murals painted along the stairways and lanes of Cerro Bellavista.
• Palacio Baburizza · Cerro Alegre: An Art Nouveau mansion housing the city's fine arts museum, with views from Paseo Yugoslavo outside.
• Paseo 21 de Mayo y Ascensor Artillería · Cerro Artillería: Ride the historic funicular up to a promenade overlooking the container port and the whole bay.
• Cementerio de Disidentes y Cementerio N°1 · Cerro Panteón: Two adjacent 19th-century cemeteries where the graves of British, German and Chilean families trace the port's history.
• Boat ride from Muelle Prat · Muelle Prat: Short motorboat rides around the bay leave from the main pier, passing navy ships and sea lions.
• Street art walking tour · Cerro Alegre / Cerro Concepción: Guided walks through the hills explain the murals, funiculars and port history; many run on a tip basis.